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Houppelande - men
The houppelande is a surcoat worn during the second half of the 14th century until the beginning of the 15th century.
They were particularly fashionable between 1390 and 1410.
The shape of the sleeves evolved, and there were wide straight ones that could be folded over the arm to show the lining and the sleeves of the pourpoint.
The most emblematic are the sleeves that flare out into a very wide opening, others can be tightened in one go on the wrist.
The length is variable, with openings in the collar, the whole length or without openings.
The collar of the puffer changes a lot, from non-existent to oversized. At the height of fashion it is extremely long, reaching the chin or even the ears.
They can be decorated with brass appliques, and emblems.

- Tacuinum sanitatis - Cod.Vindob. S. n.2644, folio 67r. (1390)
- The Houppelande of John of Görlitz

Possible options :
- length, collar, opening, variable sleeves
- materials: wool, silk, velvet
- lining: silk, fur, linen, blanket- visible handmade seams

Price : from 295€ (for short length, under buttocks)
Men's noble dress - 15th century
Typical garment from the second half of the 15th century.
This masculine dress looks like a jacket in its structure.
It opens at the front thanks to small hooks hidden on the lining side.
The sleeves are wide and puffed at the shoulder to cover a doublet with maheutres underneath. They are sometimes slit to allow the arms to pass through.
The dress can be of several different lengths: ankle length (long), knee length (bastard), or buttocks lenght (short) and can be split at the sides.

- Portraits by Rogier Van der Weyden
- Regnault de Montauban, volume 3, Ms-5074 (1451-1500)

Possible options:
- Outer fabric: wool, brocade, velvet
- lining : Fur, silk, blanket, linen
- Fur type : Fake, real recycled, real new (French supplier in good standing)
- With or without preformed shoulder pleats

Price : from 410€
Noble surcoat - 13th century
A surcoat with half-length sleeves, showing the buttoned sleeves of the cotte underneath.
For a noble status it would be long and could stop above the cotte to show it.
It has a central slit in the front and back and a buttoned collar.
It can be lined with fur or silk.
This surcoat is also present among women but longer and not slit.

- Rothschild Canticles, Yale University, Ms 404, ff. 24v-25
- Tunics of St Francis of Assisi
- Frederick II, treatise on falconry, Ms 12400 f. 116r

Possible options:
- With or without lining (less historical)
- Choice of lining: silk, fur, linen, blanket
- Visible handmade seams
Travel surcoat
This surcoat, sometimes called "garde corps", is a mixed garment from the 13th and early 14th centuries. It was worn as a final layer, over a cotte.
There are several types of travel surcoat, notably liturgical ones, but here we are talking about the secular surcoat, called "rain cape" in medieval texts.
It is represented in all social circles, more often worn by men than women, and often worn in travel situation.
The sleeves can have several shapes:
- long, straight, wide sleeves
- organ-pipe sleeves, referring to a multitude of folds at the base of the sleeve (the more folds, the richer the status)
- short sleeves ending at the elbow, very flaredMany sleeves have an opening, either through a slit along the sleeve or through an opening in the armpit.
This surcoat can be more or less long (from the knee to the ankles), and slit at the front or back for riding.

- Psalter, imperfect, Netherlands, 2nd quarter of the 13th century
-La Somme le Roi, f. 136v (1295), f. 136v (1295)

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- With or without lining
- Different types of sleeves
- Material of the lining: linen, fur, silk
- With or without hood

Price: from €213
Monk's surcoat
It is similar to the travel surcoat (13th century).
Natural coloured wool is preferred as it is less expensive.
It has a hood and wide sleeves most often, early representations can be found with short sleeves, it can be slit on the sides or on front and back, or with different lengths.
On some late sources, it seems that a hood is preferred instead of a cowl.

- Investiture of a Benedictine Monk, from 'De Universo' by Rabanus Maurus (c.780-856)
- Rules of Saint Benedict- Notker the Stammerer, St. Gallen workshop, 10th century miniature
- St. Benedict delivering his Rule to St. Maurus, Monastery of St. Gilles, 1129

Price from 216€
Men's surcoat mid-14th century
A surcoat with elbow patches (or helles) is a garment worn over a cotte between 1340 and 1360.
The term cotte-hardie is sometimes used for this surcoat.
It has a central button opening, several gores under the waistband to give a nice fullness, and short sleeves extending into a strip of fabric.

Possible options:
- visible handmade seams
- with or without lining (mandatory for elbow pads)
- plain or two-tones
- fabric or metal buttons

Sources :
The Peacock's Vows, MS G.24 fol. 56r (1350)
Funeral slab of Friedrich von Hohenlohe (1354)
Bodley 264 Romance of Alexander fol.143v (1338-1344)

Price: from €310