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Femme

Long cloak - 3/4 of circle
Woolen cloak also called mantel, forming a 3/4 of circle, it has a good width and a nice fall.
Reserved for relatively well-to-do statutes up to noble.
Several closing systems:
- by a series of buttons (very fashionable in the 14th century, most often placed on the shoulder)
- by a single central button
- a simple lace / ribbon
- by a metal clasp (more common on women)

Source:
- St Ursula Protecting the Eleven Thousand Virgins with Her Cloak (15th century)
- Tomb effigies of Johann von Holzhausen (14th century)

Possible options :
- With or without lining
- Fastening system: buttons, lace, metal clasp
- Exposed handmade seams
- Decorative cut-outs on the edges

Price from 185€
Cloak demi-circular
Cloak also called mantel in the shape of a half circle. It exists throughout the Middle Ages.
In the 13th century it was reserved for nobles (men and women) to show their status, it was a ceremonial garment which was always lined.
The length is between mid-calf and ankles.
The cloak is closed by a cord or a ribbon woven and tied on each side of the opening. Depending on the position of the closure, a hood can be created with the fold of the fabric.
It is usually made of wool with a fur or silk lining and can be worn with a hood made of the same fabric (sign of wealth). For royal status, special occasions (e.g. coronation) or for some religious people, the fabric can be silk or silk brocade on the outside.

Sources :
- The Crusader Bible MS M.638, fol. 39r (13th century)

Possible options:
- visible handmade seams
- special lining (fur, brocade)
- outer fabric other than wool (silk, brocade)

Price from : 300€ (wool with silk lining)
Hood 13th century
A hood model worn in the 13th century, it is relatively short and without a cornette (= a tail at the end of the hood that is more or less long).
At the end of the 12th - beginning of the 13th century it was worn by workers. Around 1250 it is found on women.
Towards the middle of the 13th century, the hood is worn by all classes of society, the materials used indicate the status. It is often represented split on the front, but it is also found closed and more rarely with 1 button.

Source:
- Maciejowski Bible, fol. 17V; ca. 1250
- Cambridge University Library; MS Ee.3.59; fol. 4v.
- New Latin acquisition 16251. Fol. 69v. St Matthew

Possible options:
- with or without lining
- lining in linen, hemp, fur or silk
- visible handmade seams

Price from 40€
Women's hood 14th century
This type of hood is typical of the 14th century. It is fitted and buttoned at the front. It can be worn unbuttoned over another linen headdress.
It can be of one colour or parti-coloured.

Possible options :
- with or without lining
- metal or wool buttons
- visible handmade seams
- lining : linen, blanket (fine white wool), silk

Sources :
- Très belles Heures de Notre-Dame (BnF NAL 3093, folio 161v), 1375-1425 c.
- London excavation no. 246
- Alexander's novel

Price from €70
Women's hood of 15th
This hood is characteristic of the 15th century for women. It is worn open, and can be pinned on the dress to help with the maintenance.
It has a long cornette which can be used as a scarf against the cold and tied around the head (see photo of green hood).
It is often worn with the edge of the visor folded down around the head. In the many illuminations depicting it, the lining (if there is one) is the same colour as the wool.

Possible options:
- without lining (hand-sewn)
- with linen, wool or silk lining
- visible hand seams

Sources:
- PML MS M.396, fol. 119r Guillaume de Machaut, Poésies, France, c. 1425-30
- Boccaccio, The Decameron, Flanders, 1432 Paris, BnF, Arsenal, manuscript 5070 fol. 304

Price from 42€ (wool lined with linen)
Women's shirt
The shirt is part of the underwear. It was worn throughout the Middle Ages.
It can be made of linen, hemp, nettle or futaine.
Its size and fineness of the fabric can vary according to the status of its wearer.
The sleeves and collars are adapted to the fashion of the clothes worn over them. The collar can be split for nursing mothers.

Sources:
French Old Testament, f.42v, ca. 1250
The Very Rich Hours of the Duke of Berry

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- Round neck, V-neck, or with amigaut
- Material : linen (bleached or natural), hemp

Price from 85€
Sleeveless women's shirt
Sleeveless shirt 2nd half 14th and 15th century.
Simple interpretation based on available sources.
There is a shirt top dated to the end of the 15th century which has been found and preserved.
It is quite complex and plays a real supporting role for the chest, but one can assume that there are simpler models when one looks at the whole set of representations.
The shirt is fitted with a linen belt that can be adjusted with a needle.There is a natural pleating formed by the bending.

Sources:
-Codices vindobonenses 2759-2764 - Austrian National Library - Vienna
- Codex of Jenský Czech Rep. IV.B.24, f. 78v - 1490-1510
- Castle Ranis, Thuringen (Germany) - Folder dated 14th century found, photographed and then lost.

Possible options :
- Exposed handmade seams
- Round collar, V-neck or with amigaut
- Material: linen (bleached or natural), hemp
- Thinner straps
- Embroidery on straps

Price : From 66€
Ste Brigitta coiff
This headdress was present as early as the 13th century and was supposedly still worn during the 15th century. It is the equivalent of the male simple linen coiff for women.
A headdress was found during the discovery of a relic attributed to St. Brigid, hence the name commonly used nowadays.
It is dated to the end of the 13th century.
The found headdress is decorated with several embroideries including an interlaced herringbone stitch.
It can be worn on its own or used as the basis for a veil or hood.

Possible options:
- With or without embroidery
- Visible handmade seams

Price from 25€
Knotted coiff
Linen knotted coiff worn during the 15th century.
Numerous representations in illuminations for all types of status.

Sources:
- Boccaccio, Des cleres et nobles femmes (15th century)
- Ovid, Héroïdes, translation by Octavien de Saint-Gelais (15th century)

Price: €25
Removables sleeves
Removable sleeves which are pinned onto the 15th century short-sleeved "corset" dress.

Source:
- The Descent from the Cross, Rogier van der Weyden, 1435
- The Birth of Mary, Alte Pinakothek, Munich, 1470

Possible options:
- Different materials: brocade, silk, velvet
- Visible handmade seams
- Buttoning / lacing possible on the forearm

Price: from €33
14th century dress - type 1
This dress, also called a cotte, is worn over the shirt. It is cut close to the body on the bust then flares out.
Its neckline can be very wide until the top of the shoulders is completely revealed.
It opens on the front with multiple buttons.
The sleeves are fitted and buttoned.

Source:
- Speculum humanae salvationis Latin 511 Folio 16r
- Herjolfsnes excavations

Options :
- with or without lining
- plain or two-coloured
- Metal or fabric buttons
- Visible handmade seams

Price: from 340€
Burgundian gown
The burgundian gown is emblematic of the 2nd part of the 15th century. We call it also "Tassel" gown in french.
It is mostly worn by the nobles but the bourgeois imitates it.
It is worn over the shirt and the corset dress.
The "tassel" (most often black) is the piece of fabric in the V-shaped indentation of the dress.
It is pinned to the chest of the corset dress.
There are several possible collar shapes, the nobles will have fur at the cuffs and collar (sometimes at the bottom of the dress in the case of a full fur lining).
Some late images show brocade fabrics instead of fur.
The bourgeois will probably imitate this by replacing the fur with contrasting fabric.

Possible options:
- Outer fabric material: wool, brocade
- Material of lining: silk (ideal noble status), linen/fine cotton
- Type of fur: fake or real
- Visible handmade seams
- Length of the train

Price from 490€
Corset dress 15th century
This dress is called "corset" because it supports the chest.
It is worn directly over the shirt, adjusted by lacing which can be opened over the shirt.It can be long-sleeved (adjusted by a discreet buttoning or lacing) or short-sleeved.
In the latter case it can be completed by removable sleeves to be pinned.
It can be worn by all social classes, the richer you are the more saturated colours and greater width you have.

Sources:
- The Descent from the Cross, Rogier van der Weyden, 1435
- Madonna con infante, ca. 1450 (Antwerp, Koninklijk Museum)
- The Very Rich Hours of the Duke of Berry

Possible options :
- with or without lining
- long sleeves
- variation of the width
- visible handmade seams

Price: from 280€
Viking woman dress
Simple dress used by Viking women.
Long sleeves and split neck.
This is an interpretation due to the limited sources available.

Sources :
- Tomb 188/1960 in Haithabu (slit neck)
- Male tunics found (Moselund, Kragelund, Skjoldehamn)
- Fragment H55A in Haithabu (use of cups to give fullness to the garment)

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- Possible material : Wool (several weaving choices), linen

Price from 179€ (wool)
Dress with removable sleeves - 13th century
This 13th century dress has the particularity of having sleeves that are not entirely attached to the rest of the dress.
This feature allows them to be removed by tying them in the back for heavy duty work or for breastfeeding.
It was sourced from 1250 onwards for the status of workers or nurses.

Sources: Maciejowski Bible

Options :
- with or without lining
- Exposed handmade seams

Price from 212€
Half circle veil
Half-circle linen veil found throughout the Middle Ages.
It is pinned on a basic headdress of the St Brigitte type, or on a linen headband thanks to 2 pins (no sources available for the headband).

Possible options:
- visible handmade seams
- Other material : cotton, cotton/linen blend, silk, silk blend, fine wool

Price: from 32€ (machine sewing)
Travel surcoat
This surcoat, sometimes called "garde corps", is a mixed garment from the 13th and early 14th centuries. It was worn as a final layer, over a cotte.
There are several types of travel surcoat, notably liturgical ones, but here we are talking about the secular surcoat, called "rain cape" in medieval texts.
It is represented in all social circles, more often worn by men than women, and often worn in travel situation.
The sleeves can have several shapes:
- long, straight, wide sleeves
- organ-pipe sleeves, referring to a multitude of folds at the base of the sleeve (the more folds, the richer the status)
- short sleeves ending at the elbow, very flaredMany sleeves have an opening, either through a slit along the sleeve or through an opening in the armpit.
This surcoat can be more or less long (from the knee to the ankles), and slit at the front or back for riding.

Sources:
- Psalter, imperfect, Netherlands, 2nd quarter of the 13th century
-La Somme le Roi, f. 136v (1295), f. 136v (1295)

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- With or without lining
- Different types of sleeves
- Material of the lining: linen, fur, silk
- With or without hood

Price: from €213
14th century dress - type 2
This dress also called cotte is worn over the shirt.
It is cut close to the body on the bust then flares out.
Its neckline can be very wide until the top of the shoulders is completely revealed.
Type 2 does not have a central opening, the location and the cutting of some cups in the bias of the fabric, allows to put on the dress while keeping a garment close to the body at the bust level.
The sleeves are fitted and buttoned.

Possible options:
- with or without lining
- plain or two-tone colour
- Metal buttons
- Visible handmade seams

Source:Herjolfsnes excavations

Price: from 290€
Touret & Barbette
This 13th century feminine headdress is reserved for the nobility.
It is composed of 2 parts:
- the touret is the piece placed in the crown
- the barbette, the one that goes under the chin
The touret is held in place by pinning to the back of the skull.This headdress evolves throughout the century, on the photos it is a plausible model around 1250. It can be worn with braided hair or with a net holding the hair.
Henin headress
The henin or truncated henin that could only be worn by the nobility in the 15th century.
It can be truncated or not, in a plain colour or with a pattern. Most often it is decorated with a rather transparent white veil.

Source :
- Moreel triptych (Hans Memling)
- Portrait of a young woman, circa 1460, Rogier van der Weyden

Price from 110€ (without veil).
Women's hoses
Women's hoses used in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries (note that they are certainly earlier than the 13th century).
They are mainly made of wool and cut on the bias.
They are held in place by garters attached below the knee.

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams

Price from 55€
Apron
Simple linen apron.
It is fastened at the waist with a long strap.
Can be seen in the sources on men (very often bakers) and women.
One size fits all.

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- strap of varying length
- white or beige linen

Price: 45 €
13th century women noble dress
A gown worn by women of the nobility in the 13th century, over the shirt.
The elegance and wealth is found in the fullness and drape (belt required), it seems that the dresses were very long (potentially higher than the stature of the wearer).
They were bloused at the waist with the belt becoming inconspicuous. The way they walk, with the toe forward, helps to move without crushing the fabric.
The sleeves are loose on the upper arm, but once past the elbow they become very tight on the forearm which has little buttons.

Possible options:
- visible handmade seams
- type of lining : silk is preferred for noble
- with or without lining
- fabric or metal buttons

Source :
- Dress of St Clare, Basilica Santa Chiara, Assisi
- Medieval Costume in the 13th century (1180-1320), Tina Anderlini
- BNF, Apocalypsis cum figuris 1275-1300

Price: from 300€
14th century dress - type 2
This dress, also known as a cotte, is worn over a shirt. It is cut close to the body at the bust and then flares out.The neckline can be very wide, completely revealing the top of the shoulders.It opens at the front with lacing.
The sleeves are fitted and buttoned.

Sources :
Tombstone de Catherine de Warwick 1370-75
Froissart, Poems, BNF MS fr. 831, f.1, c. 1395

Options :
- with or without lining
- plain or two-tone
- Metal buttons or fabric
- Visible handmade seams

Price : from 354€
Women surcoat with tippets
Women's surcoat from the 2nd half of the 14th century.
It has 2 distinctive features:
- The tippets, white bands encircling the arms and descending in strips.
One hypothesis is that these bands could be removable. But we have very little information on this.
- Slits allowing access to the belt worn on the dress below.

Sources :
- Le Roman de la Rose ca.1365 France
- Fais et dis mémorables des romains, Valerius maximus,1376, BNF Ms. fr. 9749 f.76v

Possible options :
- Exposed hand seams
- Linen and silk lining
- Tippet material : wool, silk, fur

Starting price: 400€
Frilled veil
The frilled veil can be seen in the 2nd half of the 14th century in England, Germany, Hungary and the Netherlands.
To my knowledge, there are no sources for France or Italy.
There are several more or less complex types of "waffling".

Sources:
- Speculum humaniae salvationis, Lamech tormented by his wives, 14thc German
- Effigy of Maud de Grey, 1394

Price: 85€