Gallery

Mid-length linen braies, 14th - 15th century.

These hoses are no longer attached to the braies but to the doublet by a system of eyelets and laces.
They are still separate but are much more enveloping and show less of the braies.
They are joined at the back by a lace sewn to the back of the doublet.
For better mobility, the laces can be removed from the back and sides.

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- addition of stirrups or solid feet
- economic option (not histo but not visible): Replacement of the eyelets with a long loop on the inside to hold the shoes by a belt.
- colour : half party possible

Price : from 125€

Hood worn from about 1330 to 1450.
It has a long collar, and is longer than the 13th century chaperon to cover the shoulders.
It can be worn in many ways, including as a hat.
It is seen on all social classes, but after 1450 it is mostly found on older or middle to low status people.

Sources :
- Bocksten man's chaperone (14th century)
- Biblio de l'Arsenal, Paris Ms 5070, f.244r (15th century)

Possible options :
- bi-colored possible in the 14th century
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Embroidery (14th) or decorative stitches
- Daggings on edges (crenellations, wavelets, oak leaf, etc)

Price from 49€ (wool with linen lining)

Traces of these hoses can be found over a very long period and several examples have been found.
They are common in the 13th century, evolve a lot during the 14th century but do not disappear because they last until the 15th century for some status.
They are made of wool and are attached to the belt of the braies in the 13th century.

Sources:
- Haithabu (10th century, Viking)
- Herjolfsnes (1150-1530)
- Bocksten Man (1350)

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- addition of stirrups or solid feet

Price from 80€

Shirt valid for the 14th and 15th century.
They become shorter than the 13th century shirt to follow the fashion.
Different shapes of collar are possible, with amigaut (slit), v-neck, round collar.The shape is trapezoidal with the bottom flaring out.Possibility to have slit sides.

Sources:
- Regnault de Montauban, volume 4, Ms-5075 Fol. 172r (1451-1500)
- Tacuinum sanitatis (14th-15th century)

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- V-neck or with amigaut
- Slits on the sides
- Material : linen (bleached or natural), hemp, silk

Price from 46€

We don't know what is a cottehardie exactly, but a good part of people today but many people use the term to refer to a type of open cotte.
I could be worn over the shirt or be a surcoat worn over a cotte.
It appeared around 1335 and its name remained until the middle of the 15th century. But during 15th century it is certainly another type of cgarment.
It's a fitted garment on the bust it is a tight-fitting garment that flares out from the hips.
It appears to be knee to mid-thigh in length. It is buttoned at the front and at the forearms.

Sources:
- Speculum historiale, NAF 15941 Folio 82v, 1370-1380
- Speculum Humanae Salvationis, Germany, ca. 1360
- Alexander's novel

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Fabric or metal buttons
- Exposed handmade seams
- Daggings on edges

Price: from 250€

The houppelande is a surcoat worn during the second half of the 14th century until the beginning of the 15th century.
They were particularly fashionable between 1390 and 1410.
The shape of the sleeves evolved, and there were wide straight ones that could be folded over the arm to show the lining and the sleeves of the pourpoint.
The most emblematic are the sleeves that flare out into a very wide opening, others can be tightened in one go on the wrist.
The length is variable, with openings in the collar, the whole length or without openings.
The collar of the puffer changes a lot, from non-existent to oversized. At the height of fashion it is extremely long, reaching the chin or even the ears.
They can be decorated with brass appliques, and emblems.

Sources:
- Tacuinum sanitatis - Cod.Vindob. S. n.2644, folio 67r. (1390)
- The Houppelande of John of Görlitz

Possible options :
- length, collar, opening, variable sleeves
- materials: wool, silk, velvet
- lining: silk, fur, linen, blanket- visible handmade seams

Price : from 295€ (for short length, under buttocks)

The cotte is worn by all statutes before the appearance of the pourpoint around 1360.
The length of the garment gradually shortens during 14th century between the knee and mid-thigh.
And the cut becomes more curved than in the 13th century on the bust with a flare created by gores that starts from the waist/hip.
The collar may be round, slit or buttoned.The sleeves can be buttoned on the forearms or straight but fitted.
The fullness of the sleeve over the forearm becomes normal sized and is no longer particularly wide as in the 13th century.

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Exposed handmade seams
- Round, slit or buttoned collar
- Single or buttoned sleeve
- Centre front and back slit

Source :
- Bocksten man's boot
- Luttrell Psalter
- Livre des propriétés des choses (Paris, Bibl. Sainte-Geneviève, ms. 1029)

Price from 190€ (tunic without buttons with gores on sides, front and back)

Linen coiff, common from the 12th century onwards.
It can be tied under the chin. Can be worn alone or with another headdress (straw hat, hood, etc.).

A two-piece model was used in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Sources :
- Maciejowski Bible
- Belgium Psalter, J. Paul Getty Museum, 1280

Possible option:
- Visible handmade seams
- Material: linen or hemp
- Colour : white or natural

Price : 15€

Short cloak 3/4 circle, closed on the shoulder by several buttons.
It is mostly worn by men.
It appeared during the 14th century and continued to be worn in the 15th century.

Sources:
- Regnault de Montauban, Ms-5072, f.4r (1451-1500)
- Guillaume de Machaut, BNF Fr. 1584, (1372-1377)

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Type of buttons : fabric or metal
- Visible handmade seams
- Decorative daggings on the edges

Price from 155€

The pourpoint of Charles de Blois is a garment that is in an excellent state of preservation.
The artefact dates from 1364, and several miniatures show similar garments throughout the second half of the 14th century.
It has numerous buttons on the sleeves and on the central opening.
It comes down quite low (it will cover the braies) and has laces attached on the lining side to fasten the later separate hoses.
It has the particularity of sculpting the silhouette by making a fine waist and a bulging torso, and of having sleeves called "à grande assiettes", with armholes that go very far towards the centre of the bust.
This type of garment could be worn in both civilian and military costume.It seems that there were many variations (lacing on the bottom and buttoning on the bust), with or without buttons on the sleeves, etc.

Sources:
- Pourpoint of Charles de Blois (Artefact)
- Giovanni Boccaccio, Des cas des nobles hommes et femmes, Paris fol. 37r (1410)
- BNF New French acquisition 5243 Guiron le Courtois (1370-1380)

Price: from 560€ (with buttons reduced)

It is similar to the travel surcoat (13th century).
Natural coloured wool is preferred as it is less expensive.
It has a hood and wide sleeves most often, early representations can be found with short sleeves, it can be slit on the sides or on front and back, or with different lengths.
On some late sources, it seems that a hood is preferred instead of a cowl.

Sources:
- Investiture of a Benedictine Monk, from 'De Universo' by Rabanus Maurus (c.780-856)
- Rules of Saint Benedict- Notker the Stammerer, St. Gallen workshop, 10th century miniature
- St. Benedict delivering his Rule to St. Maurus, Monastery of St. Gilles, 1129

Price from 216€

A surcoat with elbow patches (or helles) is a garment worn over a cotte between 1340 and 1360.
The term cotte-hardie is sometimes used for this surcoat.
It has a central button opening, several gores under the waistband to give a nice fullness, and short sleeves extending into a strip of fabric.

Possible options:
- visible handmade seams
- with or without lining (mandatory for elbow pads)
- plain or two-tones
- fabric or metal buttons

Sources :
The Peacock's Vows, MS G.24 fol. 56r (1350)
Funeral slab of Friedrich von Hohenlohe (1354)
Bodley 264 Romance of Alexander fol.143v (1338-1344)

Price: from €310

Simple linen apron.
It is fastened at the waist with a long strap.
Can be seen in the sources on men (very often bakers) and women.
One size fits all.

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- strap of varying length
- white or beige linen

Price: 45 €