Mid-length linen braies, 14th - 15th century.

These hoses are no longer attached to the braies but to the doublet by a system of eyelets and laces.
They are still separate but are much more enveloping and show less of the braies.
They are joined at the back by a lace sewn to the back of the doublet.
For better mobility, the laces can be removed from the back and sides.

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- addition of stirrups or solid feet
- economic option (not histo but not visible): Replacement of the eyelets with a long loop on the inside to hold the shoes by a belt.
- colour : half party possible

Price : from 125€

Linen coiff, common from the 12th century onwards.
It can be tied under the chin. Can be worn alone or with another headdress (straw hat, hood, etc.).
This one is made in three pieces, to fit the shape of the skull.
A two-piece model was used in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Sources: one example found in Italy dated 1470-1540.

Possible option:
- Exposed handmade seams
- Material: linen or hemp

Price : 15€

Woolen cloak also called mantel, forming a 3/4 of circle, it has a good width and a nice fall.
Reserved for relatively well-to-do statutes up to noble.
Several closing systems:
- by a series of buttons (very fashionable in the 14th century, most often placed on the shoulder)
- by a single central button
- a simple lace / ribbon
- by a metal clasp (more common on women)

Source:
- St Ursula Protecting the Eleven Thousand Virgins with Her Cloak (15th century)
- Tomb effigies of Johann von Holzhausen (14th century)

Possible options :
- With or without lining
- Fastening system: buttons, lace, metal clasp
- Exposed handmade seams
- Decorative cut-outs on the edges

Price from 185€

Cloak also called mantel in the shape of a half circle. It exists throughout the Middle Ages.
In the 13th century it was reserved for nobles (men and women) to show their status, it was a ceremonial garment which was always lined.
The length is between mid-calf and ankles.
The cloak is closed by a cord or a ribbon woven and tied on each side of the opening. Depending on the position of the closure, a hood can be created with the fold of the fabric.
It is usually made of wool with a fur or silk lining and can be worn with a hood made of the same fabric (sign of wealth). For royal status, special occasions (e.g. coronation) or for some religious people, the fabric can be silk or silk brocade on the outside.

Sources :
- The Crusader Bible MS M.638, fol. 39r (13th century)

Possible options:
- visible handmade seams
- special lining (fur, brocade)
- outer fabric other than wool (silk, brocade)

Price from : 300€ (wool with silk lining)

Hood in vogue in the second half of the 15th century.
"Turban" because of the boudin which serves as a support. In reality it is closer to a hat, a result of the previous fashion when wearing the hood through the head opening with the rolled edge was in good taste.

Possible options:
- Other material than wool: silk, brocade, velvet
- Dagging on edges (oak leaves, crenellations, etc)

Sources:
- Quentin Massys the Elder
- Royal Library of Belgium, Ms 9278-80, fol. 1
- Le Livre des propriétés des choses, BNF, Français 135, fol. 193

Price from 58€

A hood model worn in the 13th century, it is relatively short and without a cornette (= a tail at the end of the hood that is more or less long).
At the end of the 12th - beginning of the 13th century it was worn by workers. Around 1250 it is found on women.
Towards the middle of the 13th century, the hood is worn by all classes of society, the materials used indicate the status. It is often represented split on the front, but it is also found closed and more rarely with 1 button.

Source:
- Maciejowski Bible, fol. 17V; ca. 1250
- Cambridge University Library; MS Ee.3.59; fol. 4v.
- New Latin acquisition 16251. Fol. 69v. St Matthew

Possible options:
- with or without lining
- lining in linen, hemp, fur or silk
- visible handmade seams

Price from 40€

Hood worn from about 1330 to 1450.
It has a long collar, and is longer than the 13th century chaperon to cover the shoulders.
It can be worn in many ways, including as a hat.
It is seen on all social classes, but after 1450 it is mostly found on older or middle to low status people.

Sources :
- Bocksten man's chaperone (14th century)
- Biblio de l'Arsenal, Paris Ms 5070, f.244r (15th century)

Possible options :
- bi-colored possible in the 14th century
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Embroidery (14th) or decorative stitches
- Daggings on edges (crenellations, wavelets, oak leaf, etc)

Price from 49€ (wool with linen lining)

Traces of these hoses can be found over a very long period and several examples have been found.
They are common in the 13th century, evolve a lot during the 14th century but do not disappear because they last until the 15th century for some status.
They are made of wool and are attached to the belt of the braies in the 13th century.

Sources:
- Haithabu (10th century, Viking)
- Herjolfsnes (1150-1530)
- Bocksten Man (1350)

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- addition of stirrups or solid feet

Price from 80€

Joined hoses, appeared in the 15th century.
They are cut on the bias of the fabric to fit the shape of the legs. They may have stirrups (a strip of cloth passing under the foot) or full feet (like socks).
These hoses have several pairs of eyelets along the waistband so that they can be attached to the doublet.
They are rarely two-tone and may have a symbol on one thigh for noble status.

Sources:
- Chroniques sire Jehan Froissart, Folio 328v
- The justice of Emperor Otto (Musée des Beaux Arts, Brussels)

Possible options :
- visible hand stitching
- addition of stirrups or solid feet
- addition of a decoration on the thigh
- wool of different thicknesses/quality

Price from 220€

This shirt was inspired by Saint Louis shirt (a relic from 13th century).
Different collar shapes are possible, with amigaut (slit), v-neck, round collar.
Possibility of a central slit in the front and back.

Options available:
- Visible handmade seams
- V-neck or with amigaut
- Centre front and back slits
- Material : linen (bleached or natural), hemp, silk

Price from 110€

Shirt valid for the 14th and 15th century.
They become shorter than the 13th century shirt to follow the fashion.
Different shapes of collar are possible, with amigaut (slit), v-neck, round collar.The shape is trapezoidal with the bottom flaring out.Possibility to have slit sides.

Sources:
- Regnault de Montauban, volume 4, Ms-5075 Fol. 172r (1451-1500)
- Tacuinum sanitatis (14th-15th century)

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- V-neck or with amigaut
- Slits on the sides
- Material : linen (bleached or natural), hemp, silk

Price from 46€

We don't know what is a cottehardie exactly, but a good part of people today but many people use the term to refer to a type of open cotte.
I could be worn over the shirt or be a surcoat worn over a cotte.
It appeared around 1335 and its name remained until the middle of the 15th century. But during 15th century it is certainly another type of cgarment.
It's a fitted garment on the bust it is a tight-fitting garment that flares out from the hips.
It appears to be knee to mid-thigh in length. It is buttoned at the front and at the forearms.

Sources:
- Speculum historiale, NAF 15941 Folio 82v, 1370-1380
- Speculum Humanae Salvationis, Germany, ca. 1360
- Alexander's novel

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Fabric or metal buttons
- Exposed handmade seams
- Daggings on edges

Price: from 250€

The houppelande is a surcoat worn during the second half of the 14th century until the beginning of the 15th century.
They were particularly fashionable between 1390 and 1410.
The shape of the sleeves evolved, and there were wide straight ones that could be folded over the arm to show the lining and the sleeves of the pourpoint.
The most emblematic are the sleeves that flare out into a very wide opening, others can be tightened in one go on the wrist.
The length is variable, with openings in the collar, the whole length or without openings.
The collar of the puffer changes a lot, from non-existent to oversized. At the height of fashion it is extremely long, reaching the chin or even the ears.
They can be decorated with brass appliques, and emblems.

Sources:
- Tacuinum sanitatis - Cod.Vindob. S. n.2644, folio 67r. (1390)
- The Houppelande of John of Görlitz

Possible options :
- length, collar, opening, variable sleeves
- materials: wool, silk, velvet
- lining: silk, fur, linen, blanket- visible handmade seams

Price : from 295€ (for short length, under buttocks)

The cotte (tunic) is worn over the shirt. It is loose fitting and has sleeves that are adjusted on the forearm by small buttons.
For a nobleman or rich bourgeois, it is long (ankles) and ample, made of a bright coloured wool lined with silk.
Historically, it is worn bloused at the waist. It is often seen slit in the front and back in the centre. The collar is fitted and slit.

Sources:
- Maciejowski Bible (1250)
- St. Louis Bible Date Paris, France, Folio: 39r, ca. 1244-1254.

Possible options :
- With or without lining (less historical)
- Exposed hand seams
- Decrease or increase of the total width
- Several collars possible: round collar, split (the most common) closed by a pin, split and buttoned.

Price: from 285€

Sleeveless doublet from the 15th century.
Although this garment is appreciated during hot weather, it is rarely represented in the sources.It is worn over the shirt and can be used to tie up shoes.
It is found worn by workers (peasants, miners, executioners, doctors) performing dirty tasks as well as by men-at-arms and wrestlers.

Sources:
- "There is a mention in a title of the Chambre des comptes, quoted by Du Cange, which tells us that in 1448 there were pourpoints both collarless and sleeveless that the francs-archers wore under a jaque" (Adrien Harmand)
- Ms. Ludwig Ludwig XIII 7 (83.MP.150), fol. 314
- The Grimani BreviaryHours of Charles of Angouleme
- Detail of a miniature of Nero watching while his mother Agrippina is dissected, Harley MS 4425, f. 59r

Possible options:
- Material: wool, linen, futaine
- with or without lining
- with or without lining, with or without visible hand seams
- with or without eyelets to fasten the shoes

Price from 165€ (wool with linen lining, laces not include)

A short pourpoint from the second half of the 15th century.
It is worn over the shirt but is very often concealed by the upper dress/surcoat.

Sources:
- Musée Saint Loup, The acrobat (15th century)
- "The four states of society: Work, Nobility, Poverty, Savage state" (1500)
- Cases of unhappy noble men and women by Giovanni Boccaccio

Possible options :
- Materials: wool, velvet, brocade, silk
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Sleeve opening with lacing or studs
- With or without eyelets for attaching socks

Price: from 192€ (unlined, without arm openings, and laces not included)

From 1450 onwards, this doublet is frequently represented. It was worn in several European countries but the Italian fashion was different.
It is shown open on the shirt in front and on the sleeves (up to maheutres).
We also find it less open with the edges of the collar coming together. Manuscript depictions often show it covered with the upper robe which hides many parts of the garment.

Sources:
- Le Mirouer historial de VINCENT de Beauvais
- Chronicles of Sire JEHAN FROISSART

Possible options :
- Material: wool, brocade, silk, velvet
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Type of lacing / number of eyelets
- Closed or open cut on the shirt

Price: from 350€ (unlined)

Typical garment from the second half of the 15th century.
This masculine dress looks like a jacket in its structure.
It opens at the front thanks to small hooks hidden on the lining side.
The sleeves are wide and puffed at the shoulder to cover a doublet with maheutres underneath. They are sometimes slit to allow the arms to pass through.
The dress can be of several different lengths: ankle length (long), knee length (bastard), or buttocks lenght (short) and can be split at the sides.

Sources:
- Portraits by Rogier Van der Weyden
- Regnault de Montauban, volume 3, Ms-5074 (1451-1500)

Possible options:
- Outer fabric: wool, brocade, velvet
- lining : Fur, silk, blanket, linen
- Fur type : Fake, real recycled, real new (French supplier in good standing)
- With or without preformed shoulder pleats

Price : from 410€

A surcoat with half-length sleeves, showing the buttoned sleeves of the cotte underneath.
For a noble status it would be long and could stop above the cotte to show it.
It has a central slit in the front and back and a buttoned collar.
It can be lined with fur or silk.
This surcoat is also present among women but longer and not slit.

Sources:
- Rothschild Canticles, Yale University, Ms 404, ff. 24v-25
- Tunics of St Francis of Assisi
- Frederick II, treatise on falconry, Ms 12400 f. 116r

Possible options:
- With or without lining (less historical)
- Choice of lining: silk, fur, linen, blanket
- Visible handmade seams

The cotte is worn by all statutes before the appearance of the pourpoint around 1360.
The length of the garment gradually shortens during 14th century between the knee and mid-thigh.
And the cut becomes more curved than in the 13th century on the bust with a flare created by gores that starts from the waist/hip.
The collar may be round, slit or buttoned.The sleeves can be buttoned on the forearms or straight but fitted.
The fullness of the sleeve over the forearm becomes normal sized and is no longer particularly wide as in the 13th century.

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Exposed handmade seams
- Round, slit or buttoned collar
- Single or buttoned sleeve
- Centre front and back slit

Source :
- Bocksten man's boot
- Luttrell Psalter
- Livre des propriétés des choses (Paris, Bibl. Sainte-Geneviève, ms. 1029)

Price from 190€ (tunic without buttons with gores on sides, front and back)

Reproduction of the Kragelund tunic (1040-1155) found in Viborg, Denmark.
The collar is slit at the front and back and forms a V-shape when the tunic is worn.
The tunic has a central slit at the front and back and sleeves constructed in 3 parts.

Stock:
- Unlined fine beige wool tunic, visible seams handmade with linen thread. Size L
250€

Possible options:
- Different material
- With or without lining
- With or without central slits
- Visible handmade seams

Price : From 170€ (machine sewing)

Hood based on the discovery of Skjoldehamn in Norway dating from 1050-1090.
The sex of the body found is not known with certainty, nor is it known whether he was Viking or Sami.

Possible options:
- visible seams handmade
- with or without lining

Price from 70€

Long linen braies in use until the beginning of the 14th century.
The length is approximately mid-calf.
A drawstring allows each leg to be tightened below the knee.
Very useful when you put your separate hoses.
They are slit in the leg.
There are two eyelets that reveal the waistband to tie separate hoses.

Source:
- Rutland Psalter
- Maciejowski Bible

Possible options :
- Visible handmade seams
- Materials : linen or hemp

Linen price : 58€

The cotte (tunic) is a woollen garment, sometimes lined, worn over the shirt.
In the 13th century, it was knee-length for modest statuses, but the richer ones could also wear it for practical reasons (hunting, horse riding for example).
It has a loose fit and is worn with a belt.
The collar is fitted and can have several fastening systems. The most common is the amigaut (central slit) which is closed by a brooch or a lace.
The sleeves, wide from the shoulder, are adjusted on the forearm. Depending on the status, they can be closed with buttons, discreet lacing or nothing (more modest status).
Historically, it is worn bloused at the level of the belt, this one will be dissimulated in the folds of fabric.
It can be split at the front and back.
The cotte will continue to exist in the 14th and 15th century with some modifications (shape of the sleeves, width, collar), for the modest statuses.

Sources:
- Rutland Psalter
- Maciejowski Bible

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Exposed handmade seams
- Decrease or increase of the total width
- Collar: round, round split (most common and shown), buttoned, split with lace (rare)

Price: from 200€

Linen coiff, common from the 12th century onwards.
It can be tied under the chin. Can be worn alone or with another headdress (straw hat, hood, etc.).

A two-piece model was used in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Sources :
- Maciejowski Bible
- Belgium Psalter, J. Paul Getty Museum, 1280

Possible option:
- Visible handmade seams
- Material: linen or hemp
- Colour : white or natural

Price : 15€

This surcoat, sometimes called "garde corps", is a mixed garment from the 13th and early 14th centuries. It was worn as a final layer, over a cotte.
There are several types of travel surcoat, notably liturgical ones, but here we are talking about the secular surcoat, called "rain cape" in medieval texts.
It is represented in all social circles, more often worn by men than women, and often worn in travel situation.
The sleeves can have several shapes:
- long, straight, wide sleeves
- organ-pipe sleeves, referring to a multitude of folds at the base of the sleeve (the more folds, the richer the status)
- short sleeves ending at the elbow, very flaredMany sleeves have an opening, either through a slit along the sleeve or through an opening in the armpit.
This surcoat can be more or less long (from the knee to the ankles), and slit at the front or back for riding.

Sources:
- Psalter, imperfect, Netherlands, 2nd quarter of the 13th century
-La Somme le Roi, f. 136v (1295), f. 136v (1295)

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- With or without lining
- Different types of sleeves
- Material of the lining: linen, fur, silk
- With or without hood

Price: from €213

Short cloak 3/4 circle, closed on the shoulder by several buttons.
It is mostly worn by men.
It appeared during the 14th century and continued to be worn in the 15th century.

Sources:
- Regnault de Montauban, Ms-5072, f.4r (1451-1500)
- Guillaume de Machaut, BNF Fr. 1584, (1372-1377)

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Type of buttons : fabric or metal
- Visible handmade seams
- Decorative daggings on the edges

Price from 155€

The pourpoint of Charles de Blois is a garment that is in an excellent state of preservation.
The artefact dates from 1364, and several miniatures show similar garments throughout the second half of the 14th century.
It has numerous buttons on the sleeves and on the central opening.
It comes down quite low (it will cover the braies) and has laces attached on the lining side to fasten the later separate hoses.
It has the particularity of sculpting the silhouette by making a fine waist and a bulging torso, and of having sleeves called "à grande assiettes", with armholes that go very far towards the centre of the bust.
This type of garment could be worn in both civilian and military costume.It seems that there were many variations (lacing on the bottom and buttoning on the bust), with or without buttons on the sleeves, etc.

Sources:
- Pourpoint of Charles de Blois (Artefact)
- Giovanni Boccaccio, Des cas des nobles hommes et femmes, Paris fol. 37r (1410)
- BNF New French acquisition 5243 Guiron le Courtois (1370-1380)

Price: from 560€ (with buttons reduced)

Simple hat that can cover the ears, worn in the 15th century.
Exposed hand-sewn seams.

Source :
- Regnault de Montauban, volume 3 (1451-1500) Ms-5074 Folio 21v

Price: 25€ from stock
or 30€ made to measure

It is similar to the travel surcoat (13th century).
Natural coloured wool is preferred as it is less expensive.
It has a hood and wide sleeves most often, early representations can be found with short sleeves, it can be slit on the sides or on front and back, or with different lengths.
On some late sources, it seems that a hood is preferred instead of a cowl.

Sources:
- Investiture of a Benedictine Monk, from 'De Universo' by Rabanus Maurus (c.780-856)
- Rules of Saint Benedict- Notker the Stammerer, St. Gallen workshop, 10th century miniature
- St. Benedict delivering his Rule to St. Maurus, Monastery of St. Gilles, 1129

Price from 216€

A surcoat with elbow patches (or helles) is a garment worn over a cotte between 1340 and 1360.
The term cotte-hardie is sometimes used for this surcoat.
It has a central button opening, several gores under the waistband to give a nice fullness, and short sleeves extending into a strip of fabric.

Possible options:
- visible handmade seams
- with or without lining (mandatory for elbow pads)
- plain or two-tones
- fabric or metal buttons

Sources :
The Peacock's Vows, MS G.24 fol. 56r (1350)
Funeral slab of Friedrich von Hohenlohe (1354)
Bodley 264 Romance of Alexander fol.143v (1338-1344)

Price: from €310

This garment, worn in the 15th century, is put on over a doublet.
It reveals it at the collar and sleeves when the dress has split sleeves.
The garment is loose and pleats at the waist, the sleeves are wide and usually have some pleats at the shoulders.
The opening is made by discreet hooks fixed on the lining side.
3 possible lengths: short (under the buttocks), medium (knee), long (ankle) to be preferred for richer status.

Possible options :
- adjustable length
- with or without perthuis
- with or without lining
- visible handmade seams
- type of lining

Price: from 200€

Simple linen apron.
It is fastened at the waist with a long strap.
Can be seen in the sources on men (very often bakers) and women.
One size fits all.

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- strap of varying length
- white or beige linen

Price: 45 €

Short trousers inspired by the archaeological piece found at Lengberg Castle.
This model differs slightly from the original found, as it has 2 knots on each side for a good fit.
One size only.100% linen

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams

Price: 25€