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Cloak demi-circular
Cloak also called mantel in the shape of a half circle. It exists throughout the Middle Ages.
In the 13th century it was reserved for nobles (men and women) to show their status, it was a ceremonial garment which was always lined.
The length is between mid-calf and ankles.
The cloak is closed by a cord or a ribbon woven and tied on each side of the opening. Depending on the position of the closure, a hood can be created with the fold of the fabric.
It is usually made of wool with a fur or silk lining and can be worn with a hood made of the same fabric (sign of wealth). For royal status, special occasions (e.g. coronation) or for some religious people, the fabric can be silk or silk brocade on the outside.

Sources :
- The Crusader Bible MS M.638, fol. 39r (13th century)

Possible options:
- visible handmade seams
- special lining (fur, brocade)
- outer fabric other than wool (silk, brocade)

Price from : 258€ (wool with silk lining)
Hood 13th century
A hood model worn in the 13th century, it is relatively short and without a cornette (= a tail at the end of the hood that is more or less long).
At the end of the 12th - beginning of the 13th century it was worn by workers. Around 1250 it is found on women.
Towards the middle of the 13th century, the hood is worn by all classes of society, the materials used indicate the status. It is often represented split on the front, but it is also found closed and more rarely with 1 button.

- Maciejowski Bible, fol. 17V; ca. 1250
- Cambridge University Library; MS Ee.3.59; fol. 4v.
- New Latin acquisition 16251. Fol. 69v. St Matthew

Possible options:
- with or without lining
- lining in linen, hemp, fur or silk
- visible handmade seams

Price from 40€
Early separate hoses
Traces of these hoses can be found over a very long period and several examples have been found.
They are common in the 13th century, evolve a lot during the 14th century but do not disappear because they last until the 15th century for some status.
They are made of wool and are attached to the belt of the braies in the 13th century.

- Haithabu (10th century, Viking)
- Herjolfsnes (1150-1530)
- Bocksten Man (1350)

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- addition of stirrups or solid feet

Price from 75€
Nobleman tunic 13th century
The cotte (tunic) is worn over the shirt. It is loose fitting and has sleeves that are adjusted on the forearm by small buttons.
For a nobleman or rich bourgeois, it is long (ankles) and ample, made of a bright coloured wool lined with silk.
Historically, it is worn bloused at the waist. It is often seen slit in the front and back in the centre. The collar is fitted and slit.

- Maciejowski Bible (1250)
- St. Louis Bible Date Paris, France, Folio: 39r, ca. 1244-1254.

Possible options :
- With or without lining (less historical)
- Exposed hand seams
- Decrease or increase of the total width
- Several collars possible: round collar, split (the most common) closed by a pin, split and buttoned.

Price: from 285€
Noble surcoat - 13th century
A surcoat with half-length sleeves, showing the buttoned sleeves of the cotte underneath.
For a noble status it would be long and could stop above the cotte to show it.
It has a central slit in the front and back and a buttoned collar.
It can be lined with fur or silk.
This surcoat is also present among women but longer and not slit.

- Rothschild Canticles, Yale University, Ms 404, ff. 24v-25
- Tunics of St Francis of Assisi
- Frederick II, treatise on falconry, Ms 12400 f. 116r

Possible options:
- With or without lining (less historical)
- Choice of lining: silk, fur, linen, blanket
- Visible handmade seams
Long braies
Long linen braies in use until the beginning of the 14th century.
The length is approximately mid-calf.
A drawstring allows each leg to be tightened below the knee.
Very useful when you put your separate hoses.
They are slit in the leg.
There are two eyelets that reveal the waistband to tie separate hoses.

- Rutland Psalter
- Maciejowski Bible

Possible options :
- Visible handmade seams
- Materials : linen or hemp

Linen price : 58€
Short cotte 13th century
The cotte (tunic) is a woollen garment, sometimes lined, worn over the shirt.
In the 13th century, it was knee-length for modest statuses, but the richer ones could also wear it for practical reasons (hunting, horse riding for example).
It has a loose fit and is worn with a belt.
The collar is fitted and can have several fastening systems. The most common is the amigaut (central slit) which is closed by a brooch or a lace.
The sleeves, wide from the shoulder, are adjusted on the forearm. Depending on the status, they can be closed with buttons, discreet lacing or nothing (more modest status).
Historically, it is worn bloused at the level of the belt, this one will be dissimulated in the folds of fabric.
It can be split at the front and back.
The cotte will continue to exist in the 14th and 15th century with some modifications (shape of the sleeves, width, collar), for the modest statuses.

- Rutland Psalter
- Maciejowski Bible

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Exposed handmade seams
- Decrease or increase of the total width
- Collar: round, round split (most common and shown), buttoned, split with lace (rare)

Price: from 200€
Linen coiff - 2 parts
Linen coiff, common from the 12th century onwards.
It can be tied under the chin. Can be worn alone or with another headdress (straw hat, hood, etc.).

A two-piece model was used in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Sources :
- Maciejowski Bible
- Belgium Psalter, J. Paul Getty Museum, 1280

Possible option:
- Visible handmade seams
- Material: linen or hemp
- Colour : white or natural

Price : 15€
Travel surcoat
This surcoat, sometimes called "garde corps", is a mixed garment from the 13th and early 14th centuries. It was worn as a final layer, over a cotte.
There are several types of travel surcoat, notably liturgical ones, but here we are talking about the secular surcoat, called "rain cape" in medieval texts.
It is represented in all social circles, more often worn by men than women, and often worn in travel situation.
The sleeves can have several shapes:
- long, straight, wide sleeves
- organ-pipe sleeves, referring to a multitude of folds at the base of the sleeve (the more folds, the richer the status)
- short sleeves ending at the elbow, very flaredMany sleeves have an opening, either through a slit along the sleeve or through an opening in the armpit.
This surcoat can be more or less long (from the knee to the ankles), and slit at the front or back for riding.

- Psalter, imperfect, Netherlands, 2nd quarter of the 13th century
-La Somme le Roi, f. 136v (1295), f. 136v (1295)

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- With or without lining
- Different types of sleeves
- Material of the lining: linen, fur, silk
- With or without hood

Price: from €213
Monk's surcoat
It is similar to the travel surcoat (13th century).
Natural coloured wool is preferred as it is less expensive.
It has a hood and wide sleeves most often, early representations can be found with short sleeves, it can be slit on the sides or on front and back, or with different lengths.
On some late sources, it seems that a hood is preferred instead of a cowl.

- Investiture of a Benedictine Monk, from 'De Universo' by Rabanus Maurus (c.780-856)
- Rules of Saint Benedict- Notker the Stammerer, St. Gallen workshop, 10th century miniature
- St. Benedict delivering his Rule to St. Maurus, Monastery of St. Gilles, 1129

Price from 216€