Gallery

We don't know what is a cottehardie exactly, but a good part of people today but many people use the term to refer to a type of open cotte.
I could be worn over the shirt or be a surcoat worn over a cotte.
It appeared around 1335 and its name remained until the middle of the 15th century. But during 15th century it is certainly another type of cgarment.
It's a fitted garment on the bust it is a tight-fitting garment that flares out from the hips.
It appears to be knee to mid-thigh in length. It is buttoned at the front and at the forearms.

Sources:
- Speculum historiale, NAF 15941 Folio 82v, 1370-1380
- Speculum Humanae Salvationis, Germany, ca. 1360
- Alexander's novel

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Fabric or metal buttons
- Exposed handmade seams
- Daggings on edges

Price: from 250€

The cotte (tunic) is worn over the shirt. It is loose fitting and has sleeves that are adjusted on the forearm by small buttons.
For a nobleman or rich bourgeois, it is long (ankles) and ample, made of a bright coloured wool lined with silk.
Historically, it is worn bloused at the waist. It is often seen slit in the front and back in the centre. The collar is fitted and slit.

Sources:
- Maciejowski Bible (1250)
- St. Louis Bible Date Paris, France, Folio: 39r, ca. 1244-1254.

Possible options :
- With or without lining (less historical)
- Exposed hand seams
- Decrease or increase of the total width
- Several collars possible: round collar, split (the most common) closed by a pin, split and buttoned.

Price: from 285€

Sleeveless doublet from the 15th century.
Although this garment is appreciated during hot weather, it is rarely represented in the sources.It is worn over the shirt and can be used to tie up shoes.
It is found worn by workers (peasants, miners, executioners, doctors) performing dirty tasks as well as by men-at-arms and wrestlers.

Sources:
- "There is a mention in a title of the Chambre des comptes, quoted by Du Cange, which tells us that in 1448 there were pourpoints both collarless and sleeveless that the francs-archers wore under a jaque" (Adrien Harmand)
- Ms. Ludwig Ludwig XIII 7 (83.MP.150), fol. 314
- The Grimani BreviaryHours of Charles of Angouleme
- Detail of a miniature of Nero watching while his mother Agrippina is dissected, Harley MS 4425, f. 59r

Possible options:
- Material: wool, linen, futaine
- with or without lining
- with or without lining, with or without visible hand seams
- with or without eyelets to fasten the shoes

Price from 165€ (wool with linen lining, laces not include)

A short pourpoint from the second half of the 15th century.
It is worn over the shirt but is very often concealed by the upper dress/surcoat.

Sources:
- Musée Saint Loup, The acrobat (15th century)
- "The four states of society: Work, Nobility, Poverty, Savage state" (1500)
- Cases of unhappy noble men and women by Giovanni Boccaccio

Possible options :
- Materials: wool, velvet, brocade, silk
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Sleeve opening with lacing or studs
- With or without eyelets for attaching socks

Price: from 192€ (unlined, without arm openings, and laces not included)

From 1450 onwards, this doublet is frequently represented. It was worn in several European countries but the Italian fashion was different.
It is shown open on the shirt in front and on the sleeves (up to maheutres).
We also find it less open with the edges of the collar coming together. Manuscript depictions often show it covered with the upper robe which hides many parts of the garment.

Sources:
- Le Mirouer historial de VINCENT de Beauvais
- Chronicles of Sire JEHAN FROISSART

Possible options :
- Material: wool, brocade, silk, velvet
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Type of lacing / number of eyelets
- Closed or open cut on the shirt

Price: from 350€ (unlined)

The cotte is worn by all statutes before the appearance of the pourpoint around 1360.
The length of the garment gradually shortens during 14th century between the knee and mid-thigh.
And the cut becomes more curved than in the 13th century on the bust with a flare created by gores that starts from the waist/hip.
The collar may be round, slit or buttoned.The sleeves can be buttoned on the forearms or straight but fitted.
The fullness of the sleeve over the forearm becomes normal sized and is no longer particularly wide as in the 13th century.

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Exposed handmade seams
- Round, slit or buttoned collar
- Single or buttoned sleeve
- Centre front and back slit

Source :
- Bocksten man's boot
- Luttrell Psalter
- Livre des propriétés des choses (Paris, Bibl. Sainte-Geneviève, ms. 1029)

Price from 190€ (tunic without buttons with gores on sides, front and back)

Reproduction of the Kragelund tunic (1040-1155) found in Viborg, Denmark.
The collar is slit at the front and back and forms a V-shape when the tunic is worn.
The tunic has a central slit at the front and back and sleeves constructed in 3 parts.

Stock:
- Unlined fine beige wool tunic, visible seams handmade with linen thread. Size L
250€

Possible options:
- Different material
- With or without lining
- With or without central slits
- Visible handmade seams

Price : From 170€ (machine sewing)

The cotte (tunic) is a woollen garment, sometimes lined, worn over the shirt.
In the 13th century, it was knee-length for modest statuses, but the richer ones could also wear it for practical reasons (hunting, horse riding for example).
It has a loose fit and is worn with a belt.
The collar is fitted and can have several fastening systems. The most common is the amigaut (central slit) which is closed by a brooch or a lace.
The sleeves, wide from the shoulder, are adjusted on the forearm. Depending on the status, they can be closed with buttons, discreet lacing or nothing (more modest status).
Historically, it is worn bloused at the level of the belt, this one will be dissimulated in the folds of fabric.
It can be split at the front and back.
The cotte will continue to exist in the 14th and 15th century with some modifications (shape of the sleeves, width, collar), for the modest statuses.

Sources:
- Rutland Psalter
- Maciejowski Bible

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Exposed handmade seams
- Decrease or increase of the total width
- Collar: round, round split (most common and shown), buttoned, split with lace (rare)

Price: from 200€

The pourpoint of Charles de Blois is a garment that is in an excellent state of preservation.
The artefact dates from 1364, and several miniatures show similar garments throughout the second half of the 14th century.
It has numerous buttons on the sleeves and on the central opening.
It comes down quite low (it will cover the braies) and has laces attached on the lining side to fasten the later separate hoses.
It has the particularity of sculpting the silhouette by making a fine waist and a bulging torso, and of having sleeves called "à grande assiettes", with armholes that go very far towards the centre of the bust.
This type of garment could be worn in both civilian and military costume.It seems that there were many variations (lacing on the bottom and buttoning on the bust), with or without buttons on the sleeves, etc.

Sources:
- Pourpoint of Charles de Blois (Artefact)
- Giovanni Boccaccio, Des cas des nobles hommes et femmes, Paris fol. 37r (1410)
- BNF New French acquisition 5243 Guiron le Courtois (1370-1380)

Price: from 560€ (with buttons reduced)