Gallery

Mid-length linen braies, 14th - 15th century.

These hoses are no longer attached to the braies but to the doublet by a system of eyelets and laces.
They are still separate but are much more enveloping and show less of the braies.
They are joined at the back by a lace sewn to the back of the doublet.
For better mobility, the laces can be removed from the back and sides.

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- addition of stirrups or solid feet
- economic option (not histo but not visible): Replacement of the eyelets with a long loop on the inside to hold the shoes by a belt.
- colour : half party possible

Price : from 125€

Hood in vogue in the second half of the 15th century.
"Turban" because of the boudin which serves as a support. In reality it is closer to a hat, a result of the previous fashion when wearing the hood through the head opening with the rolled edge was in good taste.

Possible options:
- Other material than wool: silk, brocade, velvet
- Dagging on edges (oak leaves, crenellations, etc)

Sources:
- Quentin Massys the Elder
- Royal Library of Belgium, Ms 9278-80, fol. 1
- Le Livre des propriétés des choses, BNF, Français 135, fol. 193

Price from 58€

Hood worn from about 1330 to 1450.
It has a long collar, and is longer than the 13th century chaperon to cover the shoulders.
It can be worn in many ways, including as a hat.
It is seen on all social classes, but after 1450 it is mostly found on older or middle to low status people.

Sources :
- Bocksten man's chaperone (14th century)
- Biblio de l'Arsenal, Paris Ms 5070, f.244r (15th century)

Possible options :
- bi-colored possible in the 14th century
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Embroidery (14th) or decorative stitches
- Daggings on edges (crenellations, wavelets, oak leaf, etc)

Price from 49€ (wool with linen lining)

Traces of these hoses can be found over a very long period and several examples have been found.
They are common in the 13th century, evolve a lot during the 14th century but do not disappear because they last until the 15th century for some status.
They are made of wool and are attached to the belt of the braies in the 13th century.

Sources:
- Haithabu (10th century, Viking)
- Herjolfsnes (1150-1530)
- Bocksten Man (1350)

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- addition of stirrups or solid feet

Price from 80€

Joined hoses, appeared in the 15th century.
They are cut on the bias of the fabric to fit the shape of the legs. They may have stirrups (a strip of cloth passing under the foot) or full feet (like socks).
These hoses have several pairs of eyelets along the waistband so that they can be attached to the doublet.
They are rarely two-tone and may have a symbol on one thigh for noble status.

Sources:
- Chroniques sire Jehan Froissart, Folio 328v
- The justice of Emperor Otto (Musée des Beaux Arts, Brussels)

Possible options :
- visible hand stitching
- addition of stirrups or solid feet
- addition of a decoration on the thigh
- wool of different thicknesses/quality

Price from 220€

Shirt valid for the 14th and 15th century.
They become shorter than the 13th century shirt to follow the fashion.
Different shapes of collar are possible, with amigaut (slit), v-neck, round collar.The shape is trapezoidal with the bottom flaring out.Possibility to have slit sides.

Sources:
- Regnault de Montauban, volume 4, Ms-5075 Fol. 172r (1451-1500)
- Tacuinum sanitatis (14th-15th century)

Possible options:
- Exposed handmade seams
- V-neck or with amigaut
- Slits on the sides
- Material : linen (bleached or natural), hemp, silk

Price from 46€

The houppelande is a surcoat worn during the second half of the 14th century until the beginning of the 15th century.
They were particularly fashionable between 1390 and 1410.
The shape of the sleeves evolved, and there were wide straight ones that could be folded over the arm to show the lining and the sleeves of the pourpoint.
The most emblematic are the sleeves that flare out into a very wide opening, others can be tightened in one go on the wrist.
The length is variable, with openings in the collar, the whole length or without openings.
The collar of the puffer changes a lot, from non-existent to oversized. At the height of fashion it is extremely long, reaching the chin or even the ears.
They can be decorated with brass appliques, and emblems.

Sources:
- Tacuinum sanitatis - Cod.Vindob. S. n.2644, folio 67r. (1390)
- The Houppelande of John of Görlitz

Possible options :
- length, collar, opening, variable sleeves
- materials: wool, silk, velvet
- lining: silk, fur, linen, blanket- visible handmade seams

Price : from 295€ (for short length, under buttocks)

Sleeveless doublet from the 15th century.
Although this garment is appreciated during hot weather, it is rarely represented in the sources.It is worn over the shirt and can be used to tie up shoes.
It is found worn by workers (peasants, miners, executioners, doctors) performing dirty tasks as well as by men-at-arms and wrestlers.

Sources:
- "There is a mention in a title of the Chambre des comptes, quoted by Du Cange, which tells us that in 1448 there were pourpoints both collarless and sleeveless that the francs-archers wore under a jaque" (Adrien Harmand)
- Ms. Ludwig Ludwig XIII 7 (83.MP.150), fol. 314
- The Grimani BreviaryHours of Charles of Angouleme
- Detail of a miniature of Nero watching while his mother Agrippina is dissected, Harley MS 4425, f. 59r

Possible options:
- Material: wool, linen, futaine
- with or without lining
- with or without lining, with or without visible hand seams
- with or without eyelets to fasten the shoes

Price from 165€ (wool with linen lining, laces not include)

A short pourpoint from the second half of the 15th century.
It is worn over the shirt but is very often concealed by the upper dress/surcoat.

Sources:
- Musée Saint Loup, The acrobat (15th century)
- "The four states of society: Work, Nobility, Poverty, Savage state" (1500)
- Cases of unhappy noble men and women by Giovanni Boccaccio

Possible options :
- Materials: wool, velvet, brocade, silk
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Sleeve opening with lacing or studs
- With or without eyelets for attaching socks

Price: from 192€ (unlined, without arm openings, and laces not included)

From 1450 onwards, this doublet is frequently represented. It was worn in several European countries but the Italian fashion was different.
It is shown open on the shirt in front and on the sleeves (up to maheutres).
We also find it less open with the edges of the collar coming together. Manuscript depictions often show it covered with the upper robe which hides many parts of the garment.

Sources:
- Le Mirouer historial de VINCENT de Beauvais
- Chronicles of Sire JEHAN FROISSART

Possible options :
- Material: wool, brocade, silk, velvet
- With or without lining
- Visible handmade seams
- Type of lacing / number of eyelets
- Closed or open cut on the shirt

Price: from 350€ (unlined)

Typical garment from the second half of the 15th century.
This masculine dress looks like a jacket in its structure.
It opens at the front thanks to small hooks hidden on the lining side.
The sleeves are wide and puffed at the shoulder to cover a doublet with maheutres underneath. They are sometimes slit to allow the arms to pass through.
The dress can be of several different lengths: ankle length (long), knee length (bastard), or buttocks lenght (short) and can be split at the sides.

Sources:
- Portraits by Rogier Van der Weyden
- Regnault de Montauban, volume 3, Ms-5074 (1451-1500)

Possible options:
- Outer fabric: wool, brocade, velvet
- lining : Fur, silk, blanket, linen
- Fur type : Fake, real recycled, real new (French supplier in good standing)
- With or without preformed shoulder pleats

Price : from 410€

Linen coiff, common from the 12th century onwards.
It can be tied under the chin. Can be worn alone or with another headdress (straw hat, hood, etc.).

A two-piece model was used in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Sources :
- Maciejowski Bible
- Belgium Psalter, J. Paul Getty Museum, 1280

Possible option:
- Visible handmade seams
- Material: linen or hemp
- Colour : white or natural

Price : 15€

Short cloak 3/4 circle, closed on the shoulder by several buttons.
It is mostly worn by men.
It appeared during the 14th century and continued to be worn in the 15th century.

Sources:
- Regnault de Montauban, Ms-5072, f.4r (1451-1500)
- Guillaume de Machaut, BNF Fr. 1584, (1372-1377)

Possible options:
- With or without lining
- Type of buttons : fabric or metal
- Visible handmade seams
- Decorative daggings on the edges

Price from 155€

Simple hat that can cover the ears, worn in the 15th century.
Exposed hand-sewn seams.

Source :
- Regnault de Montauban, volume 3 (1451-1500) Ms-5074 Folio 21v

Price: 25€ from stock
or 30€ made to measure

It is similar to the travel surcoat (13th century).
Natural coloured wool is preferred as it is less expensive.
It has a hood and wide sleeves most often, early representations can be found with short sleeves, it can be slit on the sides or on front and back, or with different lengths.
On some late sources, it seems that a hood is preferred instead of a cowl.

Sources:
- Investiture of a Benedictine Monk, from 'De Universo' by Rabanus Maurus (c.780-856)
- Rules of Saint Benedict- Notker the Stammerer, St. Gallen workshop, 10th century miniature
- St. Benedict delivering his Rule to St. Maurus, Monastery of St. Gilles, 1129

Price from 216€

This garment, worn in the 15th century, is put on over a doublet.
It reveals it at the collar and sleeves when the dress has split sleeves.
The garment is loose and pleats at the waist, the sleeves are wide and usually have some pleats at the shoulders.
The opening is made by discreet hooks fixed on the lining side.
3 possible lengths: short (under the buttocks), medium (knee), long (ankle) to be preferred for richer status.

Possible options :
- adjustable length
- with or without perthuis
- with or without lining
- visible handmade seams
- type of lining

Price: from 200€

Simple linen apron.
It is fastened at the waist with a long strap.
Can be seen in the sources on men (very often bakers) and women.
One size fits all.

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams
- strap of varying length
- white or beige linen

Price: 45 €

Short trousers inspired by the archaeological piece found at Lengberg Castle.
This model differs slightly from the original found, as it has 2 knots on each side for a good fit.
One size only.100% linen

Possible options :
- visible handmade seams

Price: 25€